Steak Night

Burk Ridge Farms, Whatcom County 100% Grass Fed Porterhouse
From Rainshadow Meats, Pioneer Square

Phil rode his bike home from work last Saturday.  He had a couple of hours to put in at the office, and it was a glorious, sunny day.  He could ride the ferry across the Sound, and peddle a few miles home, but that’s what mortals do.  Phil takes the overland route via Redmond, Tacoma, Gorst, Bremerton, Silverdale, and Poulsbo for a 100+ miles in the saddle.  If past is prologue, he will arrive just in time for cocktails, legs speckled in chain grease and road dirt (which is sexier than it sounds), claim he didn’t really exert himself (which is just as annoying as it sounds), and then proclaim he is starving.  Ah. For this I have a plan.  It involves steak.  Really, really good steak.

Let’s take a step back here and talk about meat. 

We’d rather have a brilliant, locally sourced, dry-aged, 100% grass-fed steak every couple of months, than something mediocre more often. Lucky for all of us, there are great local places to buy meat.  There are small farms where, if you like, you can shake the hand of the rancher and observe the animals that will one day become your dinner, like Seabreeze Farm on Vashon Island, Shorts Family Farm in Chumacum, or Hey Day Farms on Bainbridge Island.  

SeaBreeze Farm, Vashon Island Uber Dry-Aged Porterhouse

There are also full-service artisan butcher shops sourcing whole local animals, using the nose-to-tail philosophy, so that no part of the animal is wasted, like The Swinery and Rainshadow Meats. 

 Boneless Strip, Harlow Cattle Company, Spanaway, Washington 

We frequently shop at Rainshadow Meats. In addition to beef, pork, chicken, and occasionally duck, goose, turkey, and rabbit, they smoke bacon, make sausages, pate, killer meatballs, duck confit, and more.

Back to tonight's steak.  The butcher cut a steak to Phil’s specifications.  Whether it’s a côte de boeuf, strip steak, or porterhouse, Phil wants it 1-3/4 inches thick.  Why?  Because we like it that way.  One of many great things about having a relationship with a local butcher is that you get what you like, not what’s been mass-packaged, squished between Styrofoam and shrink wrap. That’s no way to splurge.

As soon as you get home with your precious bundle of meaty goodness, sprinkle 1 teaspoon sea salt per pound evenly over both sides of the steak.  Cover and refrigerate at least an hour, and preferably 24 hours.

Côte de Boeuf, Strawberry Mountain Farm, John Day, Oregon 


You can pan-fry, broil, or even deep fry a steak, marinate it, coat it in a rub, etc., but why would you?  You’ve just paid upwards of $60 for about 2-1/2 pounds of exceptional beef.  Don't you want to taste it? I’m in bed with the Tuscans on steak prep.  Bistecca alla Fiorentina.  
Wait, something is missing.  A drink!  It's summer.  The sun is shining.  Let's make daiquiris.


Daiquiri Rebelde
1/2 oz fresh lime juice
1/2 oz simple syrup (1:1 raw sugar to water)
2 - 3 fresh mint leaves, plus 1 for garnish
3 oz Bull Run Distiller's Pacific White Rum
Combine all ingredients in shaker with ice, shake and strain into chilled cocktail glass, up or on the rocks. Garnish with mint leaf.

Drink me now. 

On to cooking.  I turn you over to Phil.  Grill man, take it away . . . 

Refer to Heather's previous post on smoking chicken for how to prepare a gas grill. 

To sum up: soak some chips (I like mesquite for steak) for half hour beforehand. Wrap chips in foil, poke a few holes in foil. Fire up the gas grill. If you've got the time, talent, and inclination, use charcoal. I have none of the above. 

When grill is good ‘n’ hot, add chips.  When wood is smoking, slap that steak on the heat. I did this steak for four minutes each side. Then transfer to cool side of the grill (i.e., turn off all burners but one and move the steak over there). Grill five minutes more each side. If you like a hint of rosemary, as the Tuscans do, take a generous sprig, dip it in olive oil, and brush the steak before each turn.

I know there are professionals who say turn only once and never fuss over the meat. I envy those people. They are people who have staff to start their Argentine bonfire and who remain conveniently off-camera so you don’t know how much work or time is involved. But I digress.

While the steak is grilling, peel a large clove of garlic and cut it in half.  

We eat steak rare, and so remove it from the grill when the internal temperature registers 120-degrees on an instant read thermometer.  With a little experimentation you'll find the temperature that works for you.

Please note that your mileage will inevitably vary from steak to steak. A fattier piece will flare up more, resulting in more char. (And oh, how we can tell you some horror stories).  Marbling affects how fast the meat cooks.  In other words, keep an eye on your steak.

I think we (the collective we) are uncomfortable with the idea that the meat is still cooking while it rests. If you leave it on the grill until it “looks right” it will probably be overdone.  At first I thought this steak was underdone, but it was perfect. Of course, we like our meat bloody. 

I now turn you back over to Long Suffering Wife. . . 

Remove the steak from the grill and immediately rub both sides vigorously with the cut sides of the garlic.  Tent steak with foil and REST FOR 10 MINUTES. Yes, I shouted that.

Remove foil.  If your steak has a bone, cut around the bone to release the meat.  Nibble delicious nubbins of beef from bone.  Share with your spouse/partner. Slice steak across the grain into approximately ½-inch slices.  Plate what you will be eating.  Embellish with a squirt of fresh lemon juice and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

 Mangia tutti.

When you approach the tableside with these intimidating monsters and carve them up, your guests will tremble with awe, basking in your magnificence and casual impertinence.

  -- Anthony Bourdain

Sliced Porterhouse with a Simple Salad of 
Heirloom Tomato, Crusty Bread, Fresh Basil, Olive Oil, and Sea Salt 

The last word:  We get three dinners for two out of a large porterhouse steak.  What to do with leftovers? They're excellent cold on a salad with a red wine vinaigrette, or how about the steak tacos of your dreams?