Monday, May 18, 2015

Rosemary Chicken  

Brine it, smoke it, then set it on fire. I'm not kidding.

The first time I saw chickens at HeyDay Farms I gaped.  They were cavorting.  Running, flapping, jumping, squawking.  I did not know that chickens behaved in such a raucous manner. 

If you buy a local chicken and properly prepare it, it will be the only thing you eat that "tastes like chicken." 

I've purchased chickens from HeyDay Farms and Butler Green Farms on Bainbridge Island, and the Farm Store at Bay Hay & Feed sells chicken from Spring Rain Farm in Chimacum. 

HeyDay Farm chickens were on sale recently, Sunday's weather was glorious, and we were home all day working in the yard.  Time to smoke a chicken.

How to Prepare a Fantastic Chicken

Brine the Bird  
Do. Not. Skip. This. Step. It is essential to a flavorful, moist bird.  There are gazillions of brine options, like this one from Michael Ruhlman. 

I use the most basic brine for rosemary chicken.  In a large pot, dissolve 1/2 cup kosher salt in 4 quarts of cold water.  Rinse chicken under cool water inside and out, and submerge in pot.  Refrigerate at least 6 hours, and up to 24. 

Prep for Chicken and Gas Grill Smoking
Step 1:  Remove chicken from brine and place on a rack in a roasting pan breast side up. The rack prevents the chicken from touching the pan, as you will be cooking with indirect heat. Pour about an inch of water in the pan as an added heat barrier.  You can also add a little white wine or dry vermouth to the pan for additional flavor.

Step 2: Put some aromatics in the chicken cavity.  Pick your flavor profile and don't over-fill.  Try chunks of leek or onion, and a couple of smashed garlic cloves.  If you like, add fresh herbs like sage, rosemary, thyme, parsley, or tarragon, and/or a wedge or two of citrus such as lemon, lime, or orange. Use kitchen twine to tie the legs together to make a tidier chicken bundle. 

Step 3: Soak wood chips for 20-30 minutes. Wood chips are readily available in grocery and hardware stores. We used hickory this time. We’ve also used apple and cherry chips. (Don't use mesquite, it is too harsh for a long smoking process like this.)

Smoke the Chicken
Total smoking time: approximately 2 hours for a 5 lb. chicken.  
Step 1: Heat gas grill to 325-350 degrees. There are those who believe meat must be cooked over charcoal.  Come by some day and we'll prove you wrong, but if you prefer a charcoal grill, peace be with you.
Step 2: Wrap soaked wood chips loosely in aluminum foil and puncture in a couple of places to allow smoke to escape. Place packet near one of the side gas jets to warm. Meanwhile, soak more chips, as you will be adding a packet every half hour for the duration of smoking.
Step 3: When wood packet is smoking, place chicken on grill and turn off middle burner (or however your grill is configured). The objective is indirect heat, so no heat right under the bird.
Step 4: Close the grill lid and monitor the grill temperature. With too little heat the wood packet will stop smoking, too much and it will burn up too quickly. Adjust as needed.
Step 5: After one half hour turn chicken over with tongs so the breast side is now down. Don't use a fork to do this; you don't want to pierce the skin. Replace wood chip packet. Repeat flipping over the chicken and replacing the wood chip packet every half hour until the bird is cooked to 155 degrees. A digital probe thermometer is a kitchen must-have. They are inexpensive and the only way to be certain food is cooked to the desired temperature.
Step 6:  Cover chicken with a bunch of freshly cut rosemary sprigs. 

Close grill lid.  Check after about 10 minutes.  The rosemary should be wilted and starting to ash.
Step 7:  Here's the super fun part.  Turn off the gas, open the grill, strike a match and stand back …

I wish this was on Smell-O-Vision

When the fire is completely out, use a pastry brush and brush off the ash.  Admire your creation, then transfer bird to a cutting board and tent with foil.
Step 8:  This is another critical step.  Let chicken rest for 15 minutes.  I know this is hard, because it smells so freaking good, but if you aren't patient all the glorious juices will end up on your cutting board and not in your tummy.

What goes with rosemary chicken?  Everything. But what you want to eat right now is Karen Selvar's local asparagus. It will make you swoon.  Grill it, steam it, broil it, eat it out of hand. (Next week I'll have much more on how to enjoy this local treat.) The season is painfully short, so get to the Day Road Farmstand Monday and Wednesday from 9:00am to 2:00pm.  

When tomatoes are in season a salad of tomato chunks, torn crusty bread, fresh basil and a lot of olive oil and sea salt is great with chicken.  Until then, white beans and greens are an homage to Tuscany.  

Use leftover rosemary chicken on a sandwich with a slice of bacon and a pile of arugula. We also use it in spinach and smoked chicken risotto, or make a dinner salad with nutty grains like farro or einkorn and vegetables with a lemon tahini vinaigrette.  
C'mon Baby, Light Your Fire.

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