Asparagus – Esculent of Courtesans and Kings. And You and Me.

BI Farms Blanched & Chilled Asparagus

Humans have been devouring asparagus for over 2,000 years.  In her entertaining book How Carrots Won the Trojan War: Curious (but True) Stories of Common Vegetables, Rebecca Rupp explains the long and winding path of asparagus from ancient Greece and Rome to your kitchen. 

Given the popularity of asparagus over ages and across cultures, it is not surprising that sex is involved.  Pliny the Elder, 2nd century Arabic love manuals, European Renaissance bridegrooms, and the modern day Vegetarian Society, all tout asparagus as your go-to vegetable for a vigorous love life. 

Madame de Pompadour so loved asparagus that she created the eponymous dish still eaten today, Asperges a lá Pompador, made with eggs, butter, nutmeg, and lemon.  Madame was King Louis the XV's favorite mistress and considered one of the three most powerful women of the 18th century.  She was involved in designing the Place de la Concorde in Paris, in court affairs, and foreign policy.

Pretty Madame de P. Ponders, Perhaps on Asparagus

The first asparagus of the season hit the Day Road Farmstand on May 15^th and the clock is ticking.  You have only a couple weeks to eat your fill.

Try one of the recipes below to enjoy the bright, fresh taste of local asparagus, and perhaps bring a little extra zip to your love life. Who am I to argue with the wisdom of ages?

Asparagus with Boursin, Mustard, and Prosciutto

24 asparagus spears

4 ounces Boursin cheese, softened

1/4 pound thinly sliced prosciutto

1/8 cup mustard

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil and cook asparagus until crisp-tender, about 1.5 minutes. Transfer asparagus to a bowl of ice water and move it around a bit with your hands until chilled through. The asparagus, that is, not your hands.  :-)  Transfer asparagus to paper towels or a clean dish towel to dry.

Cut 1 slice of prosciutto lengthwise into 1-inch strips and spread each strip with about 1/2 teaspoon Boursin. Spread about 1/8 teaspoon mustard over the Boursin and wrap each strip in a spiral around an asparagus spear.

Make more hors d'oeuvres with the remaining prosciutto, Boursin, mustard, and asparagus spears in the same manner. Cover and chill.  Can be made up to 6 hours in advance.  Before serving, drizzle with olive oil. Serve with slices of chilled cantaloupe.

Charred Asparagus with Shallots, 
Thyme, and Chive Blossoms

1 bunch asparagus
2 tablespoons each butter, olive oil, plus extra oil for finishing
1 large shallot, peeled and chopped
1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1/2 lemon
chive blossoms (optional)

Heat dry iron skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking.  Add asparagus and use tongs to roll around asparagus until charred in spots, about two minutes. Transfer to a plate. 

Reduce heat to medium low.  Carefully rinse pan with hot water (it will sizzle). 

Return pan to stove.  Add butter and olive oil to skillet along with thyme leaves, chopped shallot, and garlic.  Saute until shallots are soft, about 2 minutes.  Do not let garlic brown.  

Return asparagus to pan, season with salt and pepper, drizzle on a little more olive oil, toss to combine and heat asparagus through.  Transfer to plate, drizzle with lemon juice, a little more olive oil, and garnish with chive blossoms.

Fresh Asparagus Soup

Friends of the Farms was kind enough to include my recipe in their cookbook:

6 cups water

1/4 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads

1/3 cup shelled pistachios

3 1/2 pounds asparagus

1 large potato (preferably yukon gold)

1/4 cup butter

Handful of fresh flat-leafed parsley leaves chopped

Salt and pepper

Edible flowers for garnish (such as borage or pansy)

In a small saucepan bring 1/2 cup water to a boil and remove pan from heat.

Stir in saffron and steep, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes.

Toast nuts in a heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring until fragrant.  Remove from heat.  When nuts are cool enough to handle, chop course. 

Cut asparagus spears into 2-inch pieces, reserving tips separately.

Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Bring a large saucepan of boiling salted water to a boil and blanch asparagus tips 1 minute, or until crisp-tender, and transfer with a slotted spoon to ice water to stop cooking.  Drain tips well.

Peel potato and cut enough into 1/2-inch cubes.

In a 4-quart heavy bottom pot, sauté asparagus stalks in butter over moderate heat until beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in potato, saffron infusion, and 4 cups water and simmer, covered, until vegetables are very tender but not falling apart, about 20 minutes.

In a blender puree mixture in batches until smooth.  In pot, stir together puree and enough of remaining broth to reach desired consistency. Add half of asparagus tips and bring soup to a simmer. While soup is heating, chop parsley. Season soup with pepper and salt.

Ladle soup into bowls and top with nuts, remaining asparagus tips, parsley, and flowers. 

And now for something completely different:

 Asparagus Ice Cream 

I first heard of asparagus ice cream in the outstanding new documentary series Chef's Table in an episode with Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York.  When a miscommunication led to the restaurant having too much asparagus, Barber decided to put it in every dish on the menu that night, even the ice cream. A gutsy idea that led Jonathan Gold of the LA Times to describe Blue Hill as the new epitome of farm to table dining.  

I don't know about you, but I'm starting to feel a little frisky.